There’s something very comforting about eating Moroccan food. Maybe it’s the intricate flavorings of spices, all familiar, yet also exotic. Or maybe it’s the warm feeling I get when eating a “tagine,” which is a stew of meat and vegetables cooked in a clay pot. Whatever it is, eating Moroccan food makes me wish I were in Morocco, or at least visiting a Moroccan grandma. Since I won’t be visiting Morocco any time soon, and I sadly do not have any Moroccan grandmas in my life, I instead got pulled into an exciting alternative that let “me” make my own savory ethnic meal.
Last month, I was lured by Workman Publishing’s Moroccan Cookbook Challenge, to help promote Mourad: New Moroccan by Mourad Lahlou. The challenge was for booksellers across the country to cook recipes from Mourad’s forthcoming book and then report back about our culinary adventures. I signed up immediately. Conveniently, I am married to the chef/owner of the Book Fare Café on the mezzanine level of Village Books, so I was really signing up my husband Charles to cook the recipes. I would give my expert feedback (mostly in moans or mumbled mouthfuls of food), and share it with the rest of you. I did make the desserts myself though, (my culinary area of knowledge). Last Sunday evening we invited various VB staff members to taste-test the food, and we all enjoyed a delicious “new Moroccan” meal, courtesy of Mourad’s cookbook.
Before I share the menu with you, I need to tell you a bit about Mourad’s book. Even though I was really enticed to check his book out because of my love of eating anything ethnic, I was surprised by how much I enjoyed just reading his book. While many cookbooks often have short essays, or a few paragraphs about a recipe or a technique, it’s usually more of a “here’s what I like, here’s what I use” type of essay. But what Mourad does beautifully in his cookbook is tell stories. His storytelling takes you right to the market in Morocco with vendors selling their 170-ingredient “ras el hanout” spice blends, or to his grandparents’ musty stairs, packed with urns of preserved lemons, or to Grandpa’s tea-making, full of tea leaves and lots of sugar. Every process, technique, tool and ingredient are described and explained with detail. It’s as if each recipe is built on Moroccan history, family tradition, individual trial and error, and a sense of artistic endeavor. Not to mention that this cookbook is “New Moroccan.” Mourad takes these stories and traditional food methods and adds an element of modernism. It’s not quite fusion; it’s just an updated twist. It’s catering to some Western sensibilities and taste-buds without diminishing the core of what makes Moroccan food so delicious.
So, with much admiration for this excellent, chef, restaurateur and writer, I offer you our menu with a few notes about each recipe. I assure you that we all went home with divine flavors lingering, and very satiated bellies. Mourad: New Moroccan releases in late October and I strongly encourage you to purchase this for your cookbook library. You will not be disappointed, even if all you ever do is read it while drinking mint green tea and eating almond cookies.
Culinary Notes: Before sharing individual recipes, I want to give a shout out to many of the local farmers in Whatcom County. Many of the recipes called for fruits and vegetables that we were able to get from the Saturday Farmer’s Market or from the Community Food Co-op. Various broccoli, onions and beets were from Hopewell Farm, artichokes and herbs came from Rabbit Fields Farm, peppers, potatoes and plums came from Cloud Mountain Farm, and tomatoes, mint and rosemary came from my own garden (plus various other ingredients from the café come from Alm Hill Farms).
Fried Almonds
These were an easy savory snack to make. Charles blanched whole almonds himself, which he said was much quicker and easier to do than he expected, then fried the almonds in grapeseed oil. He tossed some of the fried nuts with olive oil, salt and finely minced rosemary from our garden, and tossed some with chile powder.
Vegetable Tagine
As Mourad writes in the book, “this is as much a technique as it is a recipe.” A tagine is a terra-cotta clay pot with a lid that is used to circulate heat like a convection oven. Typically if there is meat, the meat goes on the bottom, with veggies on top. Charles used a terra-cotta planter from Home Depot as the “tagine” to make Mourad’s vegetable tagine. He used all of the veggies from the farmer’s market, such as Romanesco broccoli, purple broccoli, orange cauliflower, potatoes, carrots, and sweet Walla Walla onions. He also made a red “charmoula,” which is a sort of marinade or sauce made of spices, garlic, preserved lemon and other ingredients that give the vegetables the essence of their flavor. This tagine was a delicious stew, and it was among one of my favorite recipes, not only because of the presentation in the clay pot, but because of the rich and complex flavors.
Seven Salads
In Mourad’s book he has a chapter called “The Dance of the Seven Salads.” He describes what the number seven means in Muslim cultures, and how it is the preferred number for salads to be served at a meal. Although Charles only prepared three salads, they were delicious and beautifully presented. They included: Braised Artichokes, Sweet Onions & Cumin Broth, with fried lemon slices; a take on the Beet Salad (minus the avocado puree); and the Figs, Crème Fraiche, Arugula, Mint salad. He also made date leather for a fourth salad, but completely forgot about it in the fridge!
Basteeya
Mourad writes, “If I were to pick one dish that most represents my native country, it would have to be Morocco’s rendition of chicken potpie, ‘basteeya.’” So, of course we wanted to try it. Basteeya is made with a pastry shell that we would not be finding anywhere in Bellingham, or making either. So, Mourad’s recommendation is to make it using phyllo. It is made in a large skillet with high sides, and involves many steps and ingredients. While Charles says it was not difficult per se, he did feel like this was a very involved recipe, not for the light-hearted cook. Filled with chicken and an almond mixture, it was delicious, and worthy of a Sunday evening type of home-cooked meal. Mourad has served more than a quarter million basteeyas in his career!
Almond Cake
Here’s where I actually do some cooking. Baking and desserts are my areas of expertise, both because I like to eat them, but also because I like the mathematical preciseness of the recipes. This almond cake was airy and moist, but not wet, and the technique for adding a semi-melted, mayonnaise consistency butter contributed to the nice texture. Plus, almond paste gave the cake its rich flavor.
Plum Sorbet
I bought some beautiful plums at the farmer’s market and, of course, didn’t write down what variety they were (Italian/prune type of shape with a light skin and pink flesh). All I am going to say about this recipe, which you add half a vanilla bean and rosewater to, is that it was exceptional. It turned out a pretty pink hue from the plums, and was smooth and delicate. It was a perfect pairing with the almond cake. Plus, I saved the pulp, which was stewed with sugar, the vanilla bean and rosewater, and put it on my pancakes the other day.
Moroccan Mint Tea
I brewed this tea in smaller teapots using spearmint and orange mint from my garden. The recipe calls for gunpowder green tea and sugar as well. It was delicious.
Ahh, food. It wins its way into most hearts. I will take on a cookbook challenge any time, or at least sign my husband up for the cooking part, while I get to eat the results. Mourad: New Moroccan won’t be out until late October, but you can pre-order a copy by calling our store at 360-671-2626 or ordering online at villagebooks.com. Keep it in mind for the holidays, and check out this interview with the chef himself. I think you will enjoy it!
Super photos! Love them!It looks yammy ! Tasty!!!!
Posted by: Alexander | September 29, 2011 at 10:31 AM